Hi Terrysmum, and many thanks for contacting us!
First of all can I say that your tortoise is lovely (is he the Terry in Terrysmum?), but he is a Horsfield tortoise and not a Hermann's tortoise, and your vet should have mentioned that. The care of Horsfields is almost exactly the same as the care for Hermann's so advice for one species will be fine for the other, but I just thought I should point that out. Was he sold to you as a Hermann's? Here's a link for a care sheet for Horsfields:
https://www.tortoise-protection-group.o ... 014New.pdf
Thanks for all the information and the photos. I must say, you've created a really nice looking outdoor enclosure for him, and he could go out in it even if the weather isn't super hot. If you can be outside in a t-shirt then your tortoise can go out (but of course we've had lots of cold and wet days this summer when he couldn't go out). If it's a bit cool, you can put him out for an hour or so and when his shell begins to feel cool you can take him in for a warm-up. My own tortoises have had to be indoors a lot this year and they get bored and take themselves off to bed much earlier than they would if they were outdoors.
I think one of the problems might be the temperature gradient in his indoor enclosure. I couldn't quite tell from the photo, but is that a large vivarium (glass and wood enclosed box)? If it is then these aren't really suitable for tortoises because of their need for a range of temperatures in their enclosure, and for this what you need is an open-topped tortoise table. Tortoises need a hot temperature that is measured directly below the heat source and at the height of their shell of 30C, and then at the other end of their enclosure it should be about 20C (a thermometer that isn't directly below the heat source will give you an artificially low reading). In this way they can move from warmer to cooler areas and back again to thermoregulate, which is essential. Also they need better air circulation than vivariums can provide. Vivs are very good for snakes and lizards but not for tortoises. When it is too hot them tortoises just want to sleep all the time, and the same goes for when it is too cold. Could you measure the temperature directly under his heat source?
Also, can you let me know what you are using for light, heat and UVB? I think I can see a ceramic heat emitter which produces heat well, but tortoises need heat and as bright a light as possible, and these heaters don't produce light. I think I can also see a UVB tube hanging down at the far end, and this is fine for UVB, but the light from them isn't really bright enough for tortoises and doesn't encourage activity.
It might sound like big project, but if Terry is in a vivarium, it is relatively easy to convert that into an enclosure that would be much better for him, and I've attached a couple of photos of how to do it, as well as a link to an article written by someone who was incorrectly sold a vivarium and converted it.
https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tor ... SaSMt_TWNI
Forgive me if I am misinterpreting and this isn't a vivarium you are using!
The Emeraid will be fine for a short period of time, until you get him eating again, but you obviously want to get him eating properly long-term. If he likes the Emeraid then you could try smearing some of it on a dandelion leaf, or some weeds or flowers that you want him to eat. Radiccio is OK for tortoises, but really only in small amounts, and I wouldn't feed other lettuces much at all as they don't really have loads of nutrition in them and not enough fibre. Tortoises need a high fibre/low protein diet and salad leaves are what we call a 'wet food', that goes through their digestive system too quickly. Fine every now and then, but He really should be having weeds, flowers, etc. and you can use the filter on our website plant database to produce lists of good plants to feed. (I can tell you how to do this but I'm worried that this post is going on too long and you're going to get fed up with my advice!).
Finally, was your vet a reptile/exotics vet or an ordinary vet? It's just that I was a bit surprised that he took x-rays and did a blood test, and didn't test for parasites/worms using a sample of poo, as that would be one of the first things a reptile vet would do if a tortoise isn't eating and is sleeping a lot and the x-rays and blood tests would be done later if necessary.
I really do think that this is a temperature/light problem and hopefully can be easily fixed. I'm so sorry to have written such a long post, and I would be happy to have a quick chat on the phone, which might be easier. I could email you my phone number or you can email me yours (don't post it here), and I would phone you at a time that is convenient for you, or you could phone me. Just email me on
nina@thetortoisetable.org.uk
Best wishes,
Nina
[attachment=0]Viv Conversion.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]Viv conversion.jpeg[/attachment]